Monday, 12 December 2011

the wild west

The western downs regional council in southern queensland was a home-away-from-home in 2011. The two-weeks-on and two-weeks-off work cycle meant that i spent nearly half the year out here (or there). During that time, I got to meet many of the local wildlife that have found and made their home in the forests and grasslands of the western downs, where now they are extracting for coal seam gas. From the coalmines near Condamine, to the Wandoan sun, many bared the secrets of their souls...
The western downs, like any other place on earth, is inhabited by indigenous and non-indigenous populations.

First the natives:
EMU
The largest living bird in Australia (2nd largest in the world) is the emu.
Emus live on wild fruits, berries and grass leaves and small insects.
They grow up to 2 metres tall but they cannot fly.
I met this emu dad (mum) and his chicks on the little-used and little-known dusty Crowsdale-Camboon Road in the deep south of Banana shire.
Endowed with good eyesight and hearing, Emus can detect predators in the vicinity.
They live in grasslands all over Australia.
Late in the day these emus look like a painting on the landscape, but no work of art, no photograph, can depict the thrill of seeing them in their natural environment.
Sometimes they are as one with their surroundings.
Emus can live up 20 years in the wild. They are predated by eagles and hawk dingos and igoys.
KOALA
The koala is not a bear but a marsupial.
They live in eucalypt trees, feeding on the young leaves. Koalas are good climbers but slow and clumsy on the ground. They sleep most of the day in the fork of a tree, foraging for food at night.
The name Koala comes from an Aboriginal word meaning "no drink", as Koalas get enough fluids from the eucalyptus leaves they feed on. 
Koalas are very placid and do not move around much, but this one got startled  and climbed up a small tree. It probably hasn't seen or heard a car or even come in contact with humans before.
I was not expecting to find this fair-sized koala, and was pleasantly surprised to meet it in a forested road reservation off the Goombi-Fairymeadow Road in Greenswamp.

Australian Bustard
Bustards, which weigh 14 kg, are the heaviest flying birds in Australia, and amongst the heaviest in the world.
A wet and wary bustard off the West Myall Road/Roma-Taroom Road junction near north of Roma.
These huge birds reach heights of 120 cm and wingspans around 2 m. Bustards prefer to walk because of their bulk, though it is quite a spectacular sight to witness them in flight.
Near construction works in Chinchilla-Tara Road.
Australian Bustards are found on dry plains, grasslands, in open woodland and low shrublands. 
They are vulnerable to predation by introduced predators such as dingoes, cats, foxes and igollotes.
Off Greenswamp Road.
This species is also called the Plains Turkey or Wild Turkey.

GOANNA
Goannas or monitor lizards are a common sight in Australia. 

Goannas are darkish in shades of grey, olive or brown and most of them show lighter coloured patterns. These are white or yellow spots, or stripes. One day I almost ran over a brighter coloured (orange-striped) goanna, but wasn't fast enough to take a photo before it ran off into the bush.
Goannas are predators with sharp teeth and long claws. They forage and hunt for lizards, snakes, insects, birds and eggs and even small mammals. Like most native fauna, goannas are rather wary of human intrusions into their habitat, and will most likely run away into the scrub, or up a tree like our friend here.
Goanna off Greenswamp Road.
Recent studies suggest that goannas are venomous. Keep away from them.

ECHIDNA
The Echidna (or Spiny Ant-eater) is one of only two surviving monotremes, (link between the reptiles and mammals). Echidnas are widely distributed throughout Australia. They live in a variety of habitats, from dry deserts to humid rainforests.
They rest in hollow logs, under stones, clumps of vegetation or in short burrows. The Echidna is not an aggressive animal but has remarkable defensive ability when it feels threatened. It rolls itself into a ball, with prickly spines out to protect its soft under-parts.
Apparently echidnas are falling prey to feral cats, dogs and humans.
We met this spiky creature whilst zooming along the Warrego Highway between Miles and Roma. I thought it was hitch-hiking. We didn't have any room in the car anyway, so we directed it back to the bush.
KANGAROO
The kangaroo is Australia's largest living marsupial and national animal. Kangaroos of different types live in all areas of Australia, Kangaroos are herbivorous, eating a range of plants. 
Most are nocturnal but some are active in the early morning and late afternoon. 
I spied this beauty as the sun was setting. It tried to hide behind a fence post.
At the Argoon-Kilburnie Road in Callide.
There is no farming of kangaroos but they are harvested in the wild by licensed hunters. Harvesting of kangaroos for export started in 1959. Today kangaroo meat and skins are exported to more than 55 countries all over the world. Kangaroo meat is one of the finest healthiest and leanest game meats with fat levels of less than 2% and is high in protein, zinc and iron. Its appeal stems from its delightful well-flavoured, slightly gamey taste.
The other threat to kangaroos aside from cullers and hunters are the roadkillers - vehicles. 
Off Mooga-Mooga Creek, Roma-Taroom Road.
Estimates vary but every year hundreds of thousands of kangaroos end up as roadkill. Many kangaroos (and wallabies) get killed when they go to the roadsides to feed.
Near Juandah Creek, Wandoan.
Rain and roads promote grass on the roadside verges. 
Dawson Highway, just below Specimen Hill on the Callide range.
Bitumen roads draw in heat from the sun during the day then in the cool of night creates condensation causing green grass to grow. These grass attract the kangaroos  usually in the early mornings and at dusk.
Off Inverness Road, Callide range.
This poor roo must have died a slow and painful death. Its legs got tangled up in a barbed wire fence trapping it.
In a matter of days, especially in the hot sun, it was just skin - no, just hair and bones.

SNAKES
 A very sluggish carpet snake off Crowsdale-Camboon Road. We hiked in about 1km, along a meandering creek when I heard my mate, who was about 100m back, yell out. I thought 'uh-oh. I hope he hasn't rolled an ankle.' I walked back to find him excitedly showing me this photo.
A red or brown and very dead snake. 
This was a roadkill on Greenswamp Road.

The Brigalow scaly-foot is a legless lizard, lead grey to greyish brown in colour that grows to approximately 60cm.
From the rolling hills of Woleebee.
Blue-tongued lizards are prey to cats and foxes.
This lizard was in three parts, perhaps attacked by a fox. It was in a drain of the Kogan-Condamine Road.
Rocket frog? I'm not sure. I found this sharing a home with some green frogs in Paradise Downs Road.
Whilst at the wild west, I also witnessed a murder, but that's for another blog...
There's more pictures of wildlife of the western downs here: locals-of-the-crossroads.

The immigrants: see part 2. the wild wild west

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

travelling central and southeast queensland

Working travels and travails.

Some few weeks ago I travelled to Biloela in central queensland for yet another out-of-town work stint. I planned a bit of an itinerary to take in some of the sights of central and southeast Queensland. This working stint will allow some driving through the regional councils of Moreton Bay, Somerset, South Burnett and North Burnett, while doing some work in Banana and Gladstone. I did go bananas before.

Travel day was a fine day, great for driving. Some clouds floated overhead keeping the temperatures down. Following familiar roads and places, we started up the Bruce Highway to Caboolture, thence turned off D’Aguilar Highway through the small towns Wamuran, D’Aguilar and Woodford. The Moreton Bay area offers a wide array of recreation leisure and entertainment activities in natural settings from beach resorts to rural mountain bays and rivers.

Soon we sight Kilcoy and Moore on the northern outskirts of Somerset region. The Somerset is a destination for a relaxing retreat, bed-and-breakfast or farmstay, camping, rail trail hiking or riding, wineries water sports and activities or sky diving. Apparently you can do it all here.
It is normally a pleasant experience but driving up the blackbutt range we got caught behind roadworks below Benarkin. Benarkin is the gateway to the south burnett from moreton.

The South Burnett is located atop Australia's Great Dividing Range directly west of the Sunshine Coast. The region is different, really different - to the coast, or virtually anywhere else in the Sunshine State. The region and its charming towns beg to be explored. Now why wouldn’t one do exactly that?              

We drive through Blackbutt and Yarraman on the range. Been that, done there.



In Nanango I bought peanuts from a peanut van under some spreading gum trees. I stayed in this town before for work in nearby Blackbutt. This town (4th oldest town in Queensland) in the green grassed meadows and rail trails of the South Burnett is at the junction of the D’Aguilar hwy and Burnett hwy.  We zoom past Nanango, Goomeri and the Tansey turnoff to the coast, and thence into North Burnett.
Straddling an area of almost 20,000 square kilometres and a population of around 10 600, the North Burnett region includes the townships of Eidsvold, Gayndah, Monto, and Mundubbera and many villages and farming catchments.The region takes its name from the Burnett River that was named after surveyor "Burnett", one of the early explorers. Settlement occurred in 1848 with sheep stations and later cattle and eventually agriculture.The climate is pleasant sub-tropical though frosts and sub-zero temperatures occur in winter between June and August.

Binjour seems worth exploring but I blinked and missed it. Don't you blink too, or you'll miss this caption.
Eyesight test. Only on this blog.

We stopped in Munduberra for lunch and coffee. The royal hotel beckoned but can’t drink and drive, might spill the drink.
So we proceeded on to Eidsvold then Thangool and finally arrive in Biloela in Banana shire.
Banana, a progressive shire of opportunity in Industry, Business and Tourism, is inland from Gladstone and the city of Rockhampton, the beef capital of Australia. Along with these two coastal centres, Banana is a vital hub in the boom industrial centres of central queensland. The Shire derives its name from a renowned huge dun coloured bullock named 'Banana', a legendary decoy for leading wild cattle to pens. Coal mining, beef production, power generation, dryland cropping and irrigation cropping such as lucerne and cotton are the Shire's major industries. It is rich in natural resources, with extensive undeveloped coal deposits and  abundant supplies of coalbed methane gas. The Biloela meatworks is the third largest in Queensland and processes meat for export throughout Australia, Asia and around the western Pacific region.


A motel room. Home for a few weeks.
I spent the next three weeks in the Banana-Gladstone regions. 


While in Banana, we ranged out to Cracow, Theodore, Banana and Biloela our base.

The Cracow pub is famous for tent boxing. I fronted up one lazy lunchtime, but no one else did.
So I settled for a glass of milk.
Gladstone (named after William Gladstone, a 19th century British Secretary of State for the Colonies) is in Central Queensland, bounded by the Coral Sea in the east, the Bundaberg and North Burnett Regional Council areas in the south, the Banana Shire in the west, and the Rockhampton Regional Council area in the north.




Some of the places we visited in the Gladstone area include:


Calliope is inland from Gladstone. A great rest stop.


Mt Alma



Mount Larcom.

Targinie.
Yarwun.
The density is well under one person per hectare but this may well change with the boom in the coal seam gas industry. Virtually all the pipelines converge in Gladstone. Other industries include an alumina refinery and smelter, a power station and port facilities.




The peripheral rural land is used mainly for cattle grazing, with some grain growing, fodder cropping, and timber and tropical fruit production. 


The Gladstone council is serviced by the Bruce Highway, the Dawson Highway, major Roads and the North Coast Line of the Brisbane to Cairns railway. 




This is vaguely familiar. I did do time working on the railways here in Gladstone. That was when I was young, before I dreamt of highways. Now I’m a highwayman again.



Over many long days and longer weeks, we drove through many long and lonesome highways, and many rough and dusty byways.



From burning bush to burning mountains.




Across mountain ranges and hill and dale.


Across rivers creeks and meadow.


Through barbed wire and electric fences and tall grasses, rocky paddocks and pasturing bullocks, kangaroos and wild dogs, cockatoos and snakes. I will be posting some images of the amazing wildlife that I saw here.

We met many a friendly dog or horse or rabbit or kangaroo?
And many a hostile gate or two.


From sunup to sundown, I toiled for pay for my day. One more dollar and I'm goin' home.



A three-week stint is long enough for non-stop work, 10-12 hour days. I was totally knackered, so I retreated.

Twas still dark when we hit the road again on the return trip. On the Burnett Highway, some low-lying mist and cloud suspension escorted us down our way. We had breakfast under a lean-to in Monto. Later we paused for smoko at a truck stop near Munduberra.
The big orange.
After another quick stop in Gayndah for my travelling companion to have a cigarette, we got back in the state forests of the south burnett. We stopped yet again in Goomeri, for driver changeover and some coffee and cake with cream and cherry. I am starting to unlike these stops.
Amidst some grazing cattle on a green hillside, the sight of three sizeable antlered red deer scampering up a rocky ridge is quite a privilege. I hope they're not feral.
The south Burnett area has some of the richest farmlands in Australia. It now produces 95% of duboisia in the world.The peanut capital of Australia is in Kingaroy.



We catch a glimpse of lake Barambah.



Purchase more peanuts in Nanango (the first town established here in the south burnett). Nanango derives from the aboriginal word “noogoonida” meaning “watering hole.” At Yarraman i was in two minds whether to take the new England hwy via Toowoomba and the darling downs or the shorter way. The car voted with its shaky wheels so we rolled on down the  D’Aguilar Highway.


The roadworks delays at Blackbutt range took even longer this time. 


And so we leave the south burnett for now. Next time i’ll go off the beaten track to places in the region’s west and explore more of the roads less travelled around the bunya mountains through to the western downs in southern queensland. For now we take the turnoff to Esk Valley Highway.



Soon we come to the little village of Harlin on the hills. The place invited me to stop but I kept going as i know Harlin wouldn’t run, and I’m going back to Harlin.



So on past Toogoolawah,




thence Esk, then the quite full Wivenhoe dam, to a fuel stop in Fernvale for the final leg of the trip. So on to the Warrego Highway and the Ipswich Motorway and then the busy freeways to home.


Three weeks and 5,000 kilometres. Good I had some music for company in the country.


I need a break.