Saturday 13 January 2024

The Trail Less Travelled

Exploring the towns of Mountain Province, and exploring the barrios of Bontoc, all from the one vantage point: Fato (Rocky Top), Maligcong, Bontoc, Mountain Province.

Sacred Fato is in Fa-ang (Maligcong) territory in the municipality of Bontoc. However, it is also a three-way natural boundary point between the three adjoining villages of Churya-a, Fa-ang and Litangfan. It is my favorite stopping point on the less travelled mountain trail to Chonglian.

This is an older photo from back in the day. The rock is now just another accessible spot with steps built to the top. That said, I might request for a wheelchair ramp soon.

Just about a year ago in January 2023, I set out on the road home when I found myself in this old haunt of a rock outcrop. Fato jutts out from a hilltop, literally peeking out of a peak on a lower range of the Cordillera mountains. And it is as ancient as the mountains, yes formed sin-khasot mya on the geologic time scale. It is an ideal singular lookout spot for exploring some of the towns and villages of Mountain Province. Fato is the local word for rock. Churya-a, Fa-ang and Litangfan are the local ancient names of the surrounding towns of Bontoc, Maligcong and Guina-ang respectively. But enough of words and learning, there’s worlds to go exploring. Right.

Starting in the easterly direction looking towards Barlig, that’s the cloud-capped Mount Amuyao with Lukfufan and Fal-ling in the foreground. The left edge of the photo is the direction of Tocucan, and behind the far range the eastern municipalities of Natonin and Paracelis.

Looking in the southeasterly direction to Mt Polis #1 on the provincial boundary with Ifugao. Can-eo is behind the near Samoki range, and Talubin and Bayyo lie hidden in the deep river valleys.

To the south is Mount Kalawitan in Sabangan (far left). The peak of nearby pine-clad Pokis blocks off the villages of Dantay, Alab, Balili and Gonogon, all situated along the D’albago valley highway.

If I had not been nalukutan this morning, I might have witnessed the sunrise waking Kalawitan from its cloudy slumber.

But a little later from Litangfan at ag-ageo, the sun was already in full stride- rolling around the sky. The sleep-in was much needed though, for a beauty sleep. It did not work, but at least I got a bit of energy for the hike.

Swinging to the south-southwest and the heights of Bauko: The horizont line in the middle is the Mt Data plateau with Madalipey at its right edge. It is framed by Mt Data at left and Mt Polis #2 at right. At middle-right nestled at the foot of Polis is the village of San Gabriel, its rooftops clearly visible. Behind Polis and clearly not visible is the town of Tadian. 

To the southwest: Mt Ampacao in Sagada is at far left. Metropolitan Kiltepan is in the middle. And at near bottom is Likayan Road climbing up to the Dalican saddle.

Swinging west in the direction of Besao- the Aguid peaks in the far range. Then the villages of old Likayan at middle and new Dalican at left.

Once again: New Dalican and old Likayan.

Now to the north. Looking toward Chonglian, the far high peak is Mount Serkan. The near range is Kamanvatin and Cheyjey.

Looking northeast to Maligcong. Sadanga is well hidden behind the range.

Photos of these great views of Maligcong from Fato are not rare, but these photos here are rare because they are not spoiled by some selfie’s face.

So there you have it: all the worlds of Mountain Province to explore. Now here’s some more words to learn, only in Fato. Apparently, every photo below paints a thousand words. All you need to do is read them signs. See, when you go exploring, you learn a new language. The language of nature as spoken by the mountains.

Barlig Road to the east of the province and beyond.

Once again to the east and Amuyao.

Samoki and Polis #1.

The near mountain is Ifontok and the far high peak is Isabangan- Kalawitan. Mt Data at far right.
Zooming out a little.

Chata, Bontoc.

Data, Bauko.

Exploring Bauko. Madalipey at middle and Cadad-anan. Bangnen Road at bottom.

San Gabriel and Mt Polis, Bauko.

Amuyao. A sleeping beauty. But all mountains are.

Road to Ifugao via Talubin and Bayyo.

The nearest neighbor of Fato is Roundtop mountain on the Litangfan Road.

Churya-a through the whispering pines.
And across the wanga is Kidla-a.
On the other side the river becomes wang-wang.


On Chonglian Road of a Janus day
and looking up to Roundtop mountain.
There is no danger if you pass
along the enchanted way.

I'll never swim Chico Wanga again. Maybe the Agkhoyo Wang-wang.

Must be time to stroll down before Fato turns into a rolling stone.

But there’s more to Fato than a selfie photo. Fato is just one gateway to the Cordillera ranges. 

From near here, you can see Tirad Pass or Bessang Pass.
Pity the camera missed the Napas pass. It was too fast.

View to Likayan and Litangfan that very few people know. And if you don't go-
Farther on and up, there are even more impressive and more awe-inspiring mountain sceneries.

Looking at Litangfan and Kalawitan from Kamognorte in Chonglian.
I used to wake to this vista every morning when I was growing up.

So, explore the Cordillera mountains. Start in Fato for a taste of the natural montane world. Hike here to bathe in the forests. Feel the breezes blowing. Eavesdrop on the whispering pines, smell their scented hair.Climb Fato to fill up your senses. Up here, your spirits are always high.

Listen to the spirits.

Yes. Come up for air. Touch the sky...

Saturday 16 December 2023

Paradise Riflebird. Birds of Queensland Vol. 24-1

Paradise Riflebird Ptiloris paradiseus

The name derives from the similarity of the male bird’s plumage to the uniforms of British riflemen (in colonial times). This bird is found only in the east coast of Australia, specifically in the subtropical and temperate rainforests of the Great Dividing Range from the Calliope Range south of Rockhampton in Queensland, to Barrington Tops National Park/ Myall Lakes National Park in New South Wales. It resides in the rainforest canopy, above 500m elevation, though known to move to lower elevations, sometimes below 200m in winter.

My first ever photo of the species (adult female I think) October 2020, Mount Glorious. 

Adult females are rufous-brown above, with a pale white stripe across top to rear of head and throat, and with lighter brown underparts and dark brown chevrons.

Foraging young or female, January 2022, Spicer's Gap, Main Range NP.

Immature and juvenile birds are similar to the adult females with greyish-brown upperparts, rufous wings, and whitish eyebrow and throat. The underparts are buff with black ‘horseshoe’ markings. There is inadequate data of juvenile appearance and more information is required to distinguish young males from adult females.

July 2022 Lawton Road trail, Mount Glorious.

The plumage of the adult male Paradise Riflebird appears a velvety jet black, but when seen in full sunlight, the spectacular iridescent metallic green, blue and purple shimmer through. 
First photo of an adult male August 2022, Lawton Road trail, Mount Glorious.

Female or young October 2022, Mount Mee.

Both genders have a long, black, decurved bill, black legs, and dark brown iris.

October 2022, Mount Glorious.

Back in November 2022, up in Mount Glorious, I was able to take just the one distant shot of an adult male displaying briefly.

This year I managed to get  a short video of its choreography.
Adult male display sequence. October 2023, Mount Glorious.


Adult male in the breeding season, September 2023, Mount Glorious.

Female or young September 2023, Mount Glorious.

The following photos and video are all from Mount Glorious, taken October 2023.



Plumage is not the only spectacular aspect of the Paradise Riflebird. During breeding season, the promiscuous males perform solitary displays for females.

This male from Mount Glorious is very well-known to birdwatchers this year 2023.


 Here, it performs a  sequence of dance moves in a solitary display to attract females. It usually performs from a favourite perch on an exposed horizontal branch high above the ground.

His display is spectacular, with its colourful plumage sparkling in the sunlight.

Not just a pretty bird, this male alternately assumes static poses and rapid side-to-side dance movements, with his swaying legs putting Elvis to shame. 


In the dance, its wings are fully spread and fanned upwards in front of him, and his head thrown back to show the metallic blue-green plumage on its throat and neck, with the gaping mouth showing bright yellow inner lining.

Adult male calling. October 2023 Mount Glorious.

The bird can be found by its distinctive calls in and around its display areas.
The call of the male is a loud harsh-sounding “yaassss” call, often repeated.

Click on this video below for an adult male calling and displaying.
Click on video above.

October 2023 Mount Glorious.

October 2023 Mount Mee.

The paradise riflebird mainly feeds on fruit, insects and spiders, high in the forest canopy. It forages up  and down tree trunks and along branches for food. Sometimes it hunts and feeds while hanging upside-down.



Mount Glorious November 2023.


Mount Mee November 2023.

The Paradise Riflebird uses its long curved bill to pry off pieces of bark, and to probe in the crevices of rotten logs and stumps on the forest floor. This species also feeds on fruit and often seen feeding together with other fruit-eating rainforest birds.


Paradise Riflebird has most recently been assessed for the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species in 2018. Although significant areas of its habitat has been lost to land clearing, it is listed as 'Least Concern.'