Some birds of the Wallace Line

Part 1. Wallace Line east

The Wallace Line goes through the Malay Archipelago (Wallacea) - the largest grouping of islands on earth. This invisible yet physical bio-geographical boundary coincides with the centre thread of the Lombok strait, a 250m-deep trench that separates the continental shelves of Sunda (Asia) and Sahul (Australia). Wallace Line delineates the sudden change of species composition to its west (Indo-Malayan) and east (Australian) ecozones. The line also separates marine life between the Asian and Australian landmasses. Understanding the Wallace Line leads to understanding biodiversity, geology and evolution. Wallace Line was named after Alfred Russell Wallace, the co-founder of natural selection. In his travels in 1856, Wallace first observed the different birds, then the divergent animal species on either side of the 12km to 35km-wide Lombok Strait. This led him to discover his ‘Wallace line’. The line extends from Bali, in Indonesia, to the Celebes Sea just south of the Philippines.

On a whim I thought to follow Wallace’s footsteps. The journey to see the more than 17 thousand islands of Wallacea starts with visiting just one. I set my very first footstep on Bali in the Lesser Sundas. From there I also visited Flores and Komodo islands in East Nusa Tenggara. That’s a great start- only 17,497 islands to go. I think it’s easier to do the Philippine Archipelago, there’s only 7,123 islands there… Back to Wallace and birds- 23 new species and subspecies were named after Wallace. Some of these birds are on the list below. Except for two species from Komodo Island, all these birds were found and photographed in mainland Flores. These 20 birds are endemic to just one island or two, or a few or all of the Lesser Sunda Islands. Most are rare and endangered throughout their native range. They generally inhabit subtropical and tropical forests at all altitudes from the mountains to sea level. Some birds persist in agricultural areas but like most wildlife, are threatened by pesticides and toxic products. However, their rapid population decline is mostly due to the pet trade.

SITE 1. This list starts in Gunung (Mount) Mbeliling in the land of the Manggarai. Mbeliling is the highest mountain in the west of the island of Flores. Its forested slopes and surrounding foothills is the home and sanctuary of at least 125 species of birds. Ten of the total 25 species seen in the Mbeliling area are on this list.

1.    Wallacean Drongo. Red-eyed, glossy-black bird with a heavy bill and shallow-forked, fanned tail.

2.       This nondescript, short-tailed stub-billed songbird Golden-rumped Flowerpecker only exists on two small Sunda Islands, Sumbawa and Flores. 

3.       Flame-breasted Sunbird is native to Indonesia and Timor Leste, but only exists in a relatively small geographical area from the island of Sumbawa East to Timor.

4.       Tenggara Paradise-Flycatcher. Only caught a fleeting blur of this breeding male’s trailing long streamers that are almost double the length of his body.

5.       Dark-crowned Heleia. Sometimes called “dark-eye” due to its unusual plumage, shape, and eggs all different from other White-eye species.

6.       Flores Heleia. A gray-and-white songbird with a diagnostic head pattern.

7.       Yellow-spectacled Heleia. A small green songbird with a bright yellow head and a distinctive orange forehead smudge.

8.       White-rumped Kingfisher. Distinctive purplish-blue upperparts, white underparts and a bright orange-red bill.

9.       Flores Minivet. This smallish minivet only exists in Sumbawa and Flores. It prefers forest habitats and is generally uncommon.

10.   Wallacean Cuckooshrike. Widespread in the Lesser Sundas and some adjacent Indonesian islands according to classifications. Common in Flores but much rarer on some other islands.

SITE 2. The hillsides of Cibal range (north of Ruteng, Manggarai Regency) is the habitat of some spectacular birds. 23 species seen here.

11.   Wallace’s Hanging-Parrot. Endemic to Flores and inhabiting a limited range, this arboreal parrot is also known as the Flores hanging parrot.

12.  Black-fronted Flowerpecker. Small but spectacular short-tailed songbird. This male exhibits its bright red throat and dark gray cheeks.

SITE 3. Danau (Lake) Ranamese is a mountainous nature reserve in East Manggarai regency. The 21m-deep lake itself sits at 1220m above sea level. It is barricaded and surrounded by dense forests, ideal habitat for various birds. Total 18 species.
 
13.   Brown-capped Fantail. A little forest bird that only exists on Sumbawa, Flores and Lembata.

14.   Chestnut-backed Thrush. A striking ground bird with a black-and-white head pattern, a chestnut back, prominent white wing markings. This species is rapidly declining if not nearly extinct.

SITE 4. At 1750m altitude, Golo Lusang saddle is in the Waso mountains of Langke Rembong, south of Ruteng. This mountain lookout offers magnificent views of Sumba Island and Savu Sea. There’s also a small matter of great birdwatching. Nine species seen here including the Warbling White-eye, Eyebrowed Heleia and Leaf Lorikeet.
 
15.   Sunda Honeyeater. Plain olive-plumaged honeyeater with a slender typical downcurved black bill.

16.   Bare-throated Whistler. Usually solo, this olive-coloured, black-faced and black-headed male sports its diagnostic red patch of bare skin on its throat.

SITE 5. Gateway to Komodo Island, the town of Labuan Bajo is on the west coast of Nusa Tenggara. 22 species.
 
17.   Ornate Pitta. A multi-coloured plump, short-tailed, long-legged, and primarily terrestrial bird. It sometimes gets on a perch to call, which allowed for a chance of photos in this instance. This bird has somehow persisted within secondary forest and small patches near residential areas. However, there is doubt of its tolerance of the degrading habitat due to pressures caused by human activity.

18.   Great-billed Parrot. Green parrot with a large red bill and distinctive yellow markings on its wings.

SITE 6. Komodo Island. 22 species.
 
19.   Barred Dove is a long-tailed dove with distinctive orange eye ring and barring all over its body.

20.   The rare and endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo is all-white with a yellow-orange crest. It pays its dues in the food chain with its eggs and chicks serving as prey for Komodo dragons, and two birds of prey: the Spotted Kestrel, and the White-bellied Sea-eagle.

Ps. The 20 birds above are only some of 70 bird species seen in the east of the Wallace Line in Flores and Komodo Islands (East Nusa Tengarra) over a five-day period earlier this year.

Kristofferson: The Pilgrim

Kris Kristofferson (22 June 1936 – 28 September 2024) wrote some of the greatest songs of the last century. He wrote intimate love songs, adventure songs, freedom songs, outlaw songs, anti-war songs, comradeship and friendship songs, political songs, songs about heroes, and most of all songs of family and gratitude. He wrote simple yet deep and intricate lyrics. He followed his heart and trod his own path, and many have followed the trail he blazed.

I saw him in concert twice - a great pleasure and privilege. Play a song in tribute. Or get on the road of Kris Kristofferson. Then check out the rest of his discography and colorful rich career.

Kris Kristofferson playlist

Visiting Bruny Island (Tasmania)

It is only an hour from Hobart by car and ferry, but wild Bruny Island is a remote location. The only thing between here and the South Pole is Antarctica. But even before contemplating that, I started exploring at the south of the island.

South Bruny is surrounded by bays, beaches, capes, steep high cliffs, rugged coastlines.

 

It has spectacular landscapes and a variety of natural environments.

Cape Bruny Lighthouse. This is one of the oldest lighthouses in Australia, it's almost a natural feature.

Cloudy Bay is popular for its great beach, camping, lagoon and wild surf.

It also features a 14km walking track that includes all 3.5km of Long Beach, CB.

Mount Mangana.

Mangana was the father of Truganini, renowned Aboriginal leader.

The Two Trees of Adventure Bay. Two Tree Point is a known “Watering Place” by the early British explorers Tobias Furneaux (1773), James Cook (1777), and William Bligh (1788). An artist, Lt George Tobin accompanied Captain Bligh on his next expedition in 1792. Tobin sketched seven paintings of Adventure Bay, including one showing these same two trees that still stand today making them at least 250 years old.

Truganini Lookout sits atop a high sand hill at the northern end of an isthmus called The Neck. The lookout offers panoramic views in all directions.

Sunrise and sunset at The Neck

It's especially good early or late in the day "during the magic hour", which is also the best time for birdwatching.

Little Penguin and Short-tailed Shearwater (muttonbird) reside in burrows at the hillsides here, but the best time to see these two species is during the first couple of hours after dark. As a bird enthusiast I was itching to go twitching all 12 of Tasmania’s endemic birds. I did find some of the endemic birds as well as other species.

Then I went to post my photos, but I could not remember my password, rather my address. So I'll post the bird photos later.

On my way back to catch the ferry to the mainland, I ended up in a tasty address. Bruny Island House of Whisky. I don't remember taking a photo. Maybe it was tipsy.

Here's some more photos. Not tipsy.

Travelling around Lunawanna-Alonnah (Bruny Island), one hears the voices of the ancients in the breeze, the trees, bays and landforms.

The ability and indeed the privilege to explore, to amble, to ramble, and to babble; is what freedom means.

But with that freedom comes responsibility, to keep oneself and others safe. To nurture nature. It also means respect for the places that you travel through.

Heroes of Lung Kwu Tan (Hong Kong)

Hong Kong is one of the world's most significant financial centres and commercial ports. It is home to the seventh-highest number of billionaires of any city and has one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. A highly developed territory, Hong Kong ranks fourth in the world for Human Development Index (HDI).

A traveller transiting through Hong Kong airport hardly knows none of the above, but I knew I have a couple of hours spare waiting for an onward flight. So I thought to go shopping.

Whilst looking through the windows I was hit with a dose of reality: I had no easy change to spare for shopping- and it made me feel sad. In my kalungkutan I thought of you.

Pero, dahil wala ka sa kalungkutan ko, naghanap ako ng kasayahan. Napadpad ako sa Lung Kwu Tan.

The village has a few hundred years of recorded history, but I left kalungkutan and came to Lung Kwu Tan to find kasayahan not history lessons. I came to look for endorphins, the natural feel-good ‘high’ that apparently one gets from exercise. But instead of endorphins I found this natural lookout for watching the rare and endangered Chinese white dolphins.

It was warm that day in Hong Kong, and I was the only fool hiking up to the lookout. My senses didn’t feel the endorphins and my eyes could not see dolphins. Then I stumbled on a huge rock, I found the Fato of Lung Kwu Tan! 

There are some great monoliths around the world, but this has to be in the top three greatest rocks, at least on this side of Lung Kwu Tan. Here's Fato of Australia and Fato of Bontoc.

Lung Kwu Tan is an area located on the southwest of Castle Peak, the highest granitic hill in Hong Kong.

It has a good length of black-sand beach which is rare in these parts.

Lung Kwu Tan occupies a quiet stretch of coastline that boasts unimpeded views looking out west to the sea and east inland to the mountain range including Castle Peak and its hinterland.

The hills of Lung Kwu Tan have little vegetation but are strewn with boulders. It is well away from the bustling centres- I was a little surprised that there was no one else there.

They say that dolphins may be observed from the shores so I waited and observed for a very long 120 minutes, but the white dolphins did not show up.

A secondary objective of my visit to Lung Kwu Tan was to look for the Chinese Francolin, a species of game bird that inhabits shrubby areas and especially common in the hilly regions of the southeast of mainland Asia. Well, I hate to disappoint my uncle Vancolin so I won’t tell him I did not find his favourite bird…

And in my search for Francolins- never mind…

Here is some history instead:

In May 1943 during the period of Japanese occupation, a guerilla leader Liu Chunxiang led a team of six defenders against the Japanese. Liu and his guerillas included local boatman Leung Hak. Leung, his wife, two daughters and one son, all lost their lives in the resistance against the Japanese invaders. In May 2023 80 years on from the invasion, the Chinese government dedicated a cenotaph in honour of the heroes of Lung Kwu Tan.

A visitor from Chong-Li-An can only pay his respects to the noble heroes and their land of Lung Kwu Tan.

I hope to explore some of these places on foot someday: Sliced Bread Rock, Mong Hau Shek Teng and Yuet Nga Valley.